On the strategy of Battle Line

My lords and ladies,

I have now had the pleasure of playing the excellent card game "Battle Line" three times. I have also had the frustration of losing the game "Battle Line" three times, against an opponent with only marginally more experience.

One does not become a gentleman gamer by allowing such a record to stand unchallenged, and consequently I took to the automated telegraph system vulgarly titled "The Internet" to determine how best to improve my play.

What follows is a synthesis of the strategies I discovered. At the time of writing, these strategies are untested by me, as my opponent has temporarily retreated to the Norfolk fens to engage in dark plans known only to himself. However, all writers on this topic are in broad agreement, so this guide may be taken to be a general synopsis of the thoughts of more experienced minds than my own.

Photo credit: Nagato Fujibayashi

Firstly: on the selection of which flag to place one's card

1. I am informed that Battle Line games are most often won by breakthrough (i.e. winning three adjacent flags) rather than reaching 5 flags. Thus this should be uppermost in one's placement strategy, whether thinking offensively or defensively.
2. In particular, the flags which are three spaces from the end are the most valuable and should be the highest priority. This is for two reasons. Winning these will limit the opponent's ability to win a breakthrough; i.e. winning flag 3 will make it almost worthless for the opponent to play for flags 1 or 2 as they can no longer break through at this end, while the winner may make a breakthrough anywhere in the range of flags 1-5. It also gives the winner of flag 3 the option to use flags 1 and 2 as either parts of a breakthrough or "dumping grounds" for less valuable cards.
3. It is generally best to play defensively, which is to say, reactively. Hence, in general, place cards against flags where the opponent has already played cards.
4. Following this logic, it is best to place where an opponent has already played two cards, thus revealing his or her strategy. One can then choose whether to play a competing strategy or to sacrifice that flag and use the spaces available on one's own side as a "dumping ground".
5. If (as will most often be the case) this is not possible, one must either react to a single card from the opponent, or attempt to take a strong position on an unstarted flag.

Secondly: general strategies for winning formations

1. Most flags, particularly against experienced opponents, will be won by either a straight flush (the highest-value formation) or three-of-a-kind. Always play with a view to obtaining one of these; if it is clear this will not be possible early in the play of a given flag, consider converting it to a dumping ground before that opportunity is lost. This is particularly true at the beginning of the game, so focus one's hand management on developing these two formations (particularly the straight flush).
2. Except as described below, strive for a straight flush. This is because, if it becomes impossible to complete such a straight flush, it can be converted either to a normal flush (with a non-consecutive card of the same suit) or a normal straight (by playing a consecutive card of a different suit), whereas a pair cannot be converted to anything useful if the third card is unavailable.
3. Following this logic, the best card available is an 8, and the next-best is a 3. An eight can be converted to any of the three highest-scoring straight flushes (8-9-10, 7-8-9 and 6-7-8), so it can immediately be seen to be strong. The strength of the 3 is more subtle, and requires understanding of another general strategy - do not start competing straight flushes. For

   

   Photo credt: Nagato Fujibayashi

   example, if you have a 4 and a 7 of the same suit, it would be disastrous to play both and try for straight flushes, as both will be competing for the 5 and 6. Instead you might consider either dumping one or using it in a three-of-a-kind, depending on cards revealed and in your hand (you might try for two non-competing straights, but you risk clogging up your hand if you wait on such an outcome). The strength of the 3 is that it is the centre card of the "low-ball straight flush", being usable in any of the 1-2-3, 2-3-4 and 3-4-5 combinations, none of which compete with the "high-ball straight flushes" centred around the 8.

Thirdly: choosing which cards to place at a flag

1. If placing a card where the opponent already has two cards, then your strategy is determined by those cards. If the opponent has a straight flush underway, they you will have to try for a higher-value straight flush if you want to win the flag. If you believe you cannot compete directly (based on the cards in hand and already played) then you must either use that flag as a dumping ground while you still can, or play a lower-scoring formation and hope that the opponent cannot complete their straight flush. If the opponent has a three-of-a-kind underway, then it is probably best to play for a low-ball straight flush, which beats any three-of-a-kind while preserving your own higher scoring straight flushes; otherwise, try for a higher-scoring three-of-a-kind.
2. If the opponent has one card, then you can form your strategy based around that card. In general (i.e. unless the information already revealed dictates otherwise), follow this strategy: (a) if the card is lower than an 8, play a higher card and try for a higher straight flush (b) if the card is an 8 or higher, play a lower card and either try for a three-of-a-kind and hope the opponent fails to get their straight flush, or try for a low-ball straight flush if they go for a three-of-a-kind.
3. If you must play to a flag with none of the opponent's cards (which you will, particularly if you are the first player), then "power-play" - try to place cards to win the flag as soon as possible, usually by starting with an 8. There are two reasons for this: one is that placing multiple cards on one flag may force the opponent to place first cards on multiple other open positions. The other is that, if a flag is won before the opponent can place three cards, then they are denied a slot which they could otherwise use as a dumping ground, and hence their flexibility is restricted.
4. Clearly, it is generally best to try a straight flush in a different suit to the opponent, to maximise one's own chances. The exception to this is when one can "break" an opponent's straight by doing so - e.g. if an opponent plays a 1, playing a 3 (or, if necessary, a 2) of the same colour makes it impossible for them to acquire a a straight, while preserving the possibility of a straight flush for oneself (albeit a harder one to obtain, with the 1 already out of play). If one's own straight is impossible, one still has the option of a three-of-a-kind which will still beat any formation the opponent can make with a 1.

Finally: the tactics cards

1. The hows and whys of tactics cards are less clear-cut than the above rules. As a general rule, it is best to hold off playing the first tactics card, as obviously gives away the momentum for the opponent to play up to two, while you may not play any until they do so. Consequently they could play just one and prevent you playing any more for the rest of the game.
2. Generally do not have more tactics cards in hand than you can play. If you have played yours and are waiting for the opponent to play theirs, do not fill your hand with dormant tactics.
3. The exception is at the beginning of the game. This is for two reasons: one is that the first tactics card you gain may define much of your early strategy, so you should consider drawing it early. The other is that an early tactics card can win a crucial early flag, which can be advantageous for many reasons as described above. Thus you should decide at the beginning whether to be one who plays a tactics card first or not, and draw early if you wish to do so (though only play that tactics card to win the flag if possible - otherwise you may lose it due to Deserter or some such).
4. The end-game also provides an exception - a very specific card may be necessary for victory, in which case drawing many tactics and hoping for a leader or other winning tactics card may be better than drawing troops (provided you can play the card, of course).

After digesting the points above from experienced players, I have high hopes for my next attempt.

Photo credit: Nagato Fujibayashi

Digested strategy tips

• play to win by/defend against breakthrough, using straight flushes centred around the 8 or 3 cards.
• flags 3 and 8 are the most valuable.
• try to lay cards reactively; otherwise, try to win the flag as soon as possible, starting with an 8 for a high straight flush if possible (and using Tactics cards if necessary).
• against two cards, play higher straight flushes against lower straight flushes; low-ball straight flushes against three-of-a-kind; and, against straight flushes you can't beat, either play three-of-a-kind and hope the opponent can't complete or dump cards now while you still can.
• against one card below 8, play a higher card for a higher straight flush; against a high card, play a lower card (particularly a 3) and play for a low-ball straight flush or three-of-a-kind depending on the opponent's second card.
• don't draw more tactics cards than you can lay (except maybe in the end game to win a crucial flag).